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Jewelry & Precious Metal Glossary

Jewelry has its own vocabulary, from the metals and gemstones used in a piece to the techniques that shape, join and finish it. This glossary explains common jewelry and precious-metal terms in straightforward language.

Use it as a reference while exploring our Precious Metal Guide, Gemstone Guide and Jewelry Care Guide, or simply to learn more about the materials and processes behind contemporary jewelry.

A

Acid Etching
A technique for creating patterns or recessed areas on metal by exposing selected portions of the surface to an acid or other etching solution. Areas that should remain unaffected are protected with an acid-resistant material called a resist.
Ag
The chemical symbol for silver, derived from the Latin word argentum.
Alloy
A material made by combining a metal with one or more other elements. Precious metals are commonly alloyed to modify characteristics such as hardness, strength, color and working properties. Sterling silver and 18K gold are examples of precious-metal alloys.
Annealing
A controlled heating and cooling process used to make metal easier to work after it has become hardened through forming, rolling, hammering or other processes.
Anodizing
An electrochemical process that changes or increases the oxide layer on the surface of certain metals. With metals such as titanium, anodizing can produce a range of colors without applying conventional paint or pigment.
Assay
A test or analysis used to determine the composition or purity of a metal, particularly a precious metal.
Au
The chemical symbol for gold, derived from the Latin word aurum.

B

Base Metal
A general term for metals that are not classified as precious metals. Copper, brass and certain other metal alloys are common examples. Base metals may also be used underneath precious-metal plating.
Brass
An alloy composed primarily of copper and zinc. Its proportions can vary, producing differences in color and physical properties.
Bronze
A family of copper-based alloys traditionally containing tin as an important alloying element. The exact composition varies depending on the type and intended use.
Brushed Finish
A directional surface finish created by producing fine lines on metal with an abrasive or brush. It reduces reflectivity compared with a highly polished surface and gives the metal a softer appearance.
Buffing
A finishing process that uses a rotating wheel or similar tool, often together with a polishing compound, to smooth and polish a metal surface.
Burnishing
A finishing technique in which a smooth, hard tool is rubbed or pressed against a metal surface to compress and smooth it, often producing greater shine without removing significant amounts of material.
Burr
A small raised or sharp edge left on metal after cutting, drilling, filing or machining. Burrs are normally removed during finishing.

C

Cabochon
A gemstone cut with a smooth, polished surface rather than multiple flat facets. Cabochons are commonly rounded or domed on top and may be used to emphasize color, pattern, translucency or optical effects within the stone.
Cameo
A carving in relief in which the design projects from the background. Cameos are traditionally carved from materials with contrasting layers, such as shell or certain stones, allowing the raised image and background to appear in different colors.
Carat
A unit of weight used for diamonds and other gemstones. One metric carat equals 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. Carat measures weight rather than the physical dimensions of a gemstone.
Casting
A process in which molten metal is introduced into a mold and allowed to solidify into the desired form. Casting allows jewelers to create complex three-dimensional shapes that can then be cleaned, assembled and finished.
Chasing
A metalsmithing technique used to shape, refine or decorate the front surface of metal with specialized punches and hammers. Chasing is often associated with repoussé, which works primarily from the reverse side.
Clasp
A mechanism used to open and close a necklace, bracelet or other piece of jewelry.
Coin Silver
A silver alloy traditionally associated in the United States with approximately 90% silver and 10% other metals. It contains less silver than sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver.
Colored Gold
Gold alloyed with other metals to modify its color. Familiar examples include yellow gold, white gold and rose gold. The final color depends on the gold content and the composition of the alloy.
Copper
A reddish metallic element with the chemical symbol Cu. Copper is highly workable and is frequently used as an alloying metal in gold, sterling silver and other jewelry metals.
Cu
The chemical symbol for copper.

D

Density
The amount of mass contained within a given volume of material. Differences in density help explain why two pieces of jewelry with similar dimensions can feel noticeably different in weight when made from different metals.
Die
A hardened tool containing a shape, pattern or design used to cut, form, stamp or impress metal.
Die Struck
A manufacturing process in which metal is shaped under pressure between dies. Unlike casting, the metal remains solid while being formed.
Ductility
A metal's ability to deform under tension without breaking. A highly ductile metal can be drawn into thin wire.

E

Electroplating
A process that uses an electrical current to deposit a layer of metal onto another conductive surface. In jewelry, electroplating can be used to apply metals such as gold or rhodium.
Enamel
A glass-based material that can be fused to metal at high temperature to introduce color and surface decoration. Enameling encompasses many different techniques and types of enamel.
Engraving
The process of cutting lines, patterns, lettering or other designs into the surface of a material, traditionally using specialized hand tools and also through modern mechanical or digital processes.
Etching
A process that removes selected areas from a surface to create a design, texture or recess. In traditional metal etching, a resist protects areas that should remain while exposed areas are chemically etched.

F

Facet
One of the flat, polished surfaces cut onto a gemstone. The arrangement and proportions of facets influence the way light travels through and reflects from a transparent gemstone.
Findings
Components used in constructing or completing jewelry, such as clasps, ear wires, posts, jump rings, catches and other functional parts.
Fine Silver
Silver with a very high level of purity, commonly identified as 999 or approximately 99.9% silver. It is softer than sterling silver and is used selectively in jewelry and metalsmithing.
Fineness
A way of expressing precious-metal purity in parts per thousand. For example, sterling silver has a fineness of 925, meaning 925 parts out of 1,000 are silver.
Finish
The final surface character given to a piece of jewelry. Finishes may be highly polished, satin, matte, brushed, hammered, textured or created through other techniques.
Florentine Finish
A decorative metal finish consisting of intersecting engraved lines, traditionally creating a textured crosshatched surface.
Forging
The process of shaping metal through controlled hammering, pressing or compression. Forging can be performed at different temperatures depending on the metal and technique.

G

Gallery
In jewelry construction, gallery can refer to the supporting structure beneath or around a gemstone setting. The term can also describe decorative metal components used in settings.
Gilding
The application of a thin layer of gold to the surface of another material. Various gilding techniques have been used historically and in contemporary decorative work.
Gold
A naturally yellow precious metal with the chemical symbol Au. Gold is highly malleable, resistant to corrosion and has been used in jewelry for thousands of years. Pure gold is 24K; jewelry is frequently made from gold alloys such as 18K or 14K to modify its strength, color and working characteristics.
Gold Filled
A material made by mechanically bonding a layer of karat gold to a base-metal core. Gold-filled material contains substantially more gold than ordinary electroplated material and is subject to specific standards for how it may be described.
Gold Leaf
Gold that has been hammered or otherwise produced in extremely thin sheets. High-purity gold foil can also be used in specialized jewelry techniques such as keum-boo.
Gold Plated
Jewelry or another object with a layer of gold deposited over an underlying metal. Because the gold is a surface layer rather than the primary material, plating can wear over time depending on its thickness, construction and use.
Goldsmith
A craftsperson who works with gold and other precious metals to create or repair jewelry and other metal objects. Despite the name, a goldsmith may work extensively with silver and other metals as well as gold.
Gram
A metric unit of mass commonly used for jewelry and gemstones. One troy ounce equals approximately 31.1035 grams.

H

Hallmark
A mark applied to precious-metal objects to communicate information such as metal fineness and, depending on the hallmarking system, the maker, assay office, location or date. Hallmarking requirements vary by country.
Hammered Finish
A surface texture created by repeated hammer blows. The size, shape and arrangement of the marks depend on the hammer and technique used.
High Polish
A smooth, highly reflective metal finish produced through progressively finer finishing and polishing processes.

I

Inclusion
An internal feature within a gemstone, such as a crystal, growth structure, cavity or fracture. Inclusions can help distinguish individual gemstones and may provide information about their formation, treatment or origin.
Ingot
Metal that has been cast into a simple form such as a bar or block so that it can be stored or subsequently rolled, forged, drawn or otherwise worked.
Inlay
A decorative technique in which one material is fitted into a recessed area of another. Jewelry inlays may use metal, stone, shell, glass or other materials.

K

Karat
A measure of the proportion of pure gold in a gold alloy. Pure gold is 24 karat. 18K gold contains 18 parts gold out of 24, equivalent to 75% gold. Karat is commonly abbreviated K or kt.
Keum-Boo
A traditional Korean metalsmithing technique that bonds thin high-karat gold to the surface of silver through carefully controlled heat and pressure. Oliver Hampel uses 24K gold keum-boo on selected sterling silver designs to create contrast between the gold and silver surfaces.

L

Lost-Wax Casting
A casting method in which a wax model is surrounded by an investment material. The wax is removed through heating, leaving a cavity into which molten metal is cast. The resulting metal form reproduces the shape of the original wax model.
Luster
The way light interacts with and reflects from the surface of a material. Gemstones, pearls and metals can exhibit different types and degrees of luster.

M

Malleability
A metal's ability to deform under compression without breaking. Malleable metals can be hammered or rolled into thin sheets. Gold is exceptionally malleable.
Matte Finish
A low-reflective surface finish that diffuses light rather than producing a mirror-like reflection. Matte surfaces can be created through various mechanical or chemical finishing techniques.
Metal
A class of materials generally characterized by properties such as electrical and thermal conductivity, strength and the ability to be formed. Metals used in jewelry include precious metals such as gold and silver as well as many other metals and alloys.
Milgrain
A decorative border consisting of very small bead-like details formed along the edge or surface of metal, often associated with vintage and finely detailed jewelry.
Mohs Scale
A comparative scale from 1 to 10 used to describe a mineral's resistance to scratching. Diamond is rated 10, while materials with lower numbers can be scratched by materials above them on the scale. The scale is comparative rather than linear.
Mold
A form containing a cavity or impression used to reproduce a shape. Different types of molds are used in jewelry model making, casting and production.

N

Nickel
A silvery metallic element used in various alloys and industrial applications. Nickel has historically been used in some jewelry alloys, although sensitivity to nickel can be an issue for some wearers and its use in jewelry is regulated in certain markets.

O

Oxidation
A chemical reaction involving a material and an oxidizing agent. In jewelry, controlled oxidation can sometimes be used intentionally to darken or alter the appearance of a metal surface. The specific reactions vary depending on the metal.
Oxidized Silver
Silver that has been intentionally darkened through a chemical surface treatment. The darkened surface creates contrast with polished, matte or otherwise finished areas and can change gradually through wear.

P

Palladium
A naturally white precious metal belonging to the platinum-group metals. Palladium can be used as a jewelry metal and as an alloying element in certain gold and platinum alloys.
Patina
A change in the appearance of a material's surface produced naturally through age and exposure or intentionally through chemical or mechanical processes. In jewelry, patina may be used as a deliberate part of the design.
Pavé
A setting style in which numerous small gemstones are set closely together across a metal surface, creating the appearance of a continuous field of stones.
Pearl
An organic gem material formed within certain mollusks. Most pearls used in jewelry today are cultured pearls, in which human intervention initiates the pearl-forming process.
Plating
The application of a layer of one metal over the surface of another material. Jewelry plating can be decorative, functional or both.
Platinum
A naturally white, dense precious metal belonging to the platinum group. Platinum is valued in jewelry for its color, corrosion resistance and physical properties.
Polish
The smoothness and reflective quality of a finished surface. In metalwork, polishing can range from subtle smoothing to a highly reflective mirror finish. In gem cutting, polish describes the quality of the finished facet or stone surface.
Polishing
The process of refining a surface using progressively finer abrasives, compounds or tools to achieve the desired smoothness and appearance.
Precious Metal
A term commonly used for rare, economically valuable metals with desirable physical and chemical properties. Gold, silver and the platinum-group metals are generally classified as precious metals.
Prong Setting
A gemstone setting in which small metal projections, or prongs, extend over portions of the gemstone to hold it securely in place.

R

Relief
A sculptural technique in which forms project from or recede into a background surface rather than being completely freestanding.
Repoussé
A traditional metalsmithing technique in which metal is shaped from the reverse side using hammers and punches to create raised forms on the front. It is frequently used together with chasing.
Reticulation
A metalsmithing technique used to create a textured, ridged or wrinkled surface through controlled heating of suitable metal alloys.
Rhodium
A bright, silvery-white member of the platinum-group metals. In jewelry it is frequently used as a thin electroplated surface, particularly on white gold and sometimes on silver.
Rose Gold
A gold alloy with a pink to reddish color produced primarily through the addition of copper. Its precise color varies according to the karat and alloy composition.

S

Sandblasting
A surface-treatment process in which abrasive particles are propelled against a material to clean, texture or create a matte surface.
Satin Finish
A soft, low-luster metal finish with a subtle directional texture. Satin finishes reflect less light than highly polished surfaces while generally retaining more sheen than a deeply matte finish.
Setting
The part of a piece of jewelry designed to secure a gemstone, as well as the process of placing and securing the stone. Common types include prong, bezel, flush and pavé settings.
Silver
A naturally white precious metal with the chemical symbol Ag. Pure silver is highly workable but relatively soft, so jewelry is commonly made from silver alloys such as sterling silver.
Solder
A metal alloy formulated to melt at a lower temperature than the metals being joined. Jewelry solders are selected according to the metals being worked and the requirements of the construction process.
Soldering
A joining process in which solder flows between closely fitted metal surfaces and creates a bond when it solidifies. Soldering is fundamental to many traditional jewelry-making processes.
Sterling Silver
A silver alloy containing at least 92.5% silver by weight, with the remainder consisting of other metals. Copper is a common alloying metal. Sterling silver is frequently marked 925.

T

Tarnish
A surface discoloration produced when a metal reacts with substances in its environment. Sterling silver commonly tarnishes through reactions involving sulfur-containing compounds in the air and surrounding materials.
Titanium
A strong, relatively lightweight metal valued for its corrosion resistance. Titanium can also develop vivid surface colors through controlled anodizing.
Troy Ounce
A traditional unit of mass used for precious metals. One troy ounce equals approximately 31.1035 grams and is different from the ordinary avoirdupois ounce used for many everyday goods in the United States.
Two-Tone
Jewelry incorporating two visibly different metal colors, materials or surface colors within the same design.

V

Vermeil
In the United States, vermeil describes qualifying gold plating applied over sterling silver and is subject to specific requirements concerning the gold's fineness and the thickness of the plated layer.

W

White Gold
A gold alloy formulated to produce a pale or white appearance by combining gold with selected white-colored alloying metals. White gold jewelry is also frequently rhodium plated to produce a brighter white surface.

Y

Yellow Gold
A gold alloy designed to retain the familiar warm yellow appearance of gold while incorporating other metals to provide the properties required for jewelry. Color varies according to karat and alloy composition.